Yes, indeed, I am still in Rishikesh. This place is sticky not just from the heat (it must be at least 90 degrees already at 10 in the morning) but also from it's ability to suck you in. Walking around, you start to recognize faces and names, restaurants and shop owners. Many of the travellers you talk to have been here for at least a week. It's got a strong sense of community, in a weird, ex-pat sort of way, that you start missing after being on the road. That, and the heat just makes it too darn difficult to motivate.
Yesterday I went and walked around the huge creamsicle temple that dominates the east side of Lakshman Jhula. Shoes are not allowed inside, even stowed in a bag, so you leave them with the attendant at the door. Each level is split into little cublicles, some of them housing garishly decorated statues, others serving as little stores selling bangles, beads, and holy doo-dads. The mini shrines all have large brass bells suspended from the ceiling, and the kids who can reach them love sounding them as loudly as possible. There's a single staircase that you spiral up after having completed the circuit of each level. At one point I was passed by a whole troop of strong, world-wisened women, brilliant skirts swishing and heavy silver toe rings clicking on the stone floors. The top affords an amazing view of Lakshman Jhula, and I stood for a while watching the swirl of colorful humanity below, across the bridge and through the narrow streets.
Tomorrow I head off from the creature comforts and fast internet connection of this place to the mountains, either with an organized trek or on my own. It's about time - I think my brain has melted in the heat.
No comments:
Post a Comment